Blending to avoid exploitation

On Friday I decided to just get up and go. I donned my salvar and Bata shoes and prayed I wouldn't get caught in a freak storm. After 3 failed attempts, I procured an auto driver for Rs100 who took me into the city to Commercial Street, the "downtown" of Bangalore. I found I quickly got distracted by the side alleys and after much wandering, I managed to find myself in some unknown alley with a gorgeous Church at the end. I was pleased to find only a few vendors asking me where I was from...my disguise was working! I was blending and hopefully passing off as a local who would not be fleeced! I haggled prices down on most of the items I bought but I could hardly have passed off as a bargainer. After a tiring day on the streets, avoiding motorbikes and autos, mud puddles and dirty ditches, I decided to head on over to Caperberry on Dickenson Road, recently opened by Shruti, one of my NAFL school friends from when I was living here 13 years ago. I found an auto and asked him to take me to her place which, according to the map, should only have been a few minutes ride. The driver was a Muslim man who not only spoke Hindi but knew some gujarati as well. I was excited and started talking to him which I quickly regretted when he claimed the address was farther than originally quoted and increased my rate from Rs30 to 50! I wasn't about to argue or walk out of the auto at this point so I shelled it out and went to find Shruti. I found her debriefing her staff in a meeting and waited for her in her lounge. The place was gorgeous, clean, and modern. It would have passed off as an upscale American bar if I hadn't known otherwise. The bathrooms carried American brand sinks and the paper towels were stacked neatly in a basket. The full bar had bright blue lights beaming from underneath and the lounge had gold and silver centerpieces next to a stand with a flip menu featuring the specials. We talked about our lives and she told me about her recent projects. Coincidentally, her family has worked with the Deshpande Foundation through Vidya Poshak, an NGO that supports a finishing school of sorts to help with job placement. Apart from working long hours at her newly opened restaurant, she was also heavily involved with her family's new venture: housing for under privileged children around Bangalore and a new school that the children could attend for free, subsidized by fees paid by the other 80% of the students. Their work is inspiring and reminds us of what one person can really do and help. Her parents would have been perfect Global Impacteers in their time! She also told me about the new alcohol curfew of 11 pm, hurting her business a bit but newly enforced because of the increase in drunk driving incidents. There are breathalizer check points she has to pass now every night on her way home. I cannot start to imagine what a drunk driver would do in the streets of Bangalore! The streets are hard enough to maneuver in the daytime, lanes that no one follows, horns honking for no reason and impossible to tell who it's directed for, and pedestrians crossing the streets at their own risk as crosswalks and lights are far and few in between. Some intersections and circles don't even have lights or stop signs-cars inch forward and scooters swerve last minute, trying to avoid collisions and traffic jams. After what seemed like barely enough time to catch up, I made my way to Mahendra Uncle's to drop off some Splenda sent by our family friend. After insisting I eat something, I finally convinced them I had to get back before it got too dark and I would risk getting completely bitten up. After procuring me a trustworthy auto driver and taking his number down, they let me go. The driver knew the area but not well--he was surprisingly VERY patient and after circling around in the dark, I was relieved to finally find the house and end my adventure.

Tumba Chennagi Eede

I learned an important phrase on Thursday, (object) toomba chennagi eede - Like (object) alot. This was an important step in communicating with Savita. Although I had been told that she knows neither English nor Hindi, I continued to attempt talking to Savita in Hindi. I wanted to clean my bathroom and clothes and of course Mami told me to just tell her to do it. Problem being of course, I don't know how. I pointed to my clothes, said bathroom in an indian accent, she nodded but a day later, bathroom was still dirty and clothes hadn't been asked for. Houston, we have a problem. I was convinced Savita resented me although all I did was stay out of her way, cleared my own place, and was really low maintenance. Then, she made oopma on the morning of Thursday and I could not get enough of it! I asked Mami how to tell her it was really good and she told me and I told Savita. She beamed. Breakthrough! After that, I told her what I liked after every meal and she appreciated my attempts at Kannada as I learned more phrases and words. Around noon, I accompanied Mami for her one week follow up for her cataract surgery. Chandrappa was with Mama so we could either take an auto or Mami could attempt driving with her dark glasses...as there were dark clouds out, Mami decided it would be better for her to drive, especially since I was there to help her out! I asked her if she was joking. Fortunately, her driving was fine and we went to the Eye Hospital, well praised by Mami for their customer service, cleanliness, and organization. They had people mopping the floors continuously and staff daftly pulled extra chairs in and out as the crowds filled and emptied. They had pre-screening rooms with optometrists before sending patients to the doctor's office downstairs. As we watched the American video overhead, describing various eye conditions and treatments, I looked around the waiting room - looking like an American facility with glass doors, clean floors, and uniformed receptionists and nurses. Despite all of this though, right in front of me were black scuffs and marks all over the white staircase side which I could not help being distracted by. It was amazing how a little white paint would have completed the clean look, but was somehow overlooked.
That afternoon, I went shopping at Big Bazaar while Chandrappa went to fix the tire puncture. A 4 story market, a few American products were available in all the departments - beauty, shoes, and even a Staples easy button in the stationary section. I cannot imagine who spends Rs 200 on a big red button, but if it's there, it must sell! I bought a few things, most importantly 2 bottles of repellent lotion, Odomos, the first bottle of which had a dead fly on it...live advertising? or should I say..dead? Chandrappa met me outside and then took me to Bata, the biggest Indian shoes brand to find some India worthy shoes. He was my personal bodyguard as we walked from one store to the next, following behind me by a few steps. I felt like I should let him catch up with me but he seemed like he meant to stay behind me. I don't quite understand and am not used to this master/servant relationship. I try to make them do the least possible for me and minimize their inconvenience. However, Mami keeps reminding me that this is their job, they get free food and housing, and the more we do, the less they do. I guess you have to be firmer when you're living that lifestyle...I would probably make a bad "maam." Sometimes, I even want to do the dishes because I unfortunately, miss it. It's amazing how affordable help is here though. For less than 100USD/month you can hire a live in maid who does the sweeping, mopping, cleaning, answers the phone and door, and all types of other miscellaneous jobs. For a few extra hundred rupees, she'll cook for you too. It's tempting when you think of what you can do with all that extra time...

Unprotected

Wednesday Mami took me to my first store, a 30 second walk away, no joke. Angadi Silks was owned by a friend of hers and the minute I walked in I knew I would probably leave empty handed. The showroom was beautiful, equipped with a lift and gorgeous stacks of saris and salvars lining the walls. The prices reflected the atmosphere and I walked out with one kurti top. Later that day, Mami took me to Priya's Fashions, her regular store with good material and decent prices. On the way there, we saw a lady in her 50s riding a bright pink scooter with her sari flowing in the wind. I wish I could have taken my camera out faster but it was truly an unexpected sight. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to go get mosquito repellent and the current repeatedly went out at Priya's Fashions. To add to it, the "trial room" was their storage closet which housed a few mosquitos as well. Unprotected, I walked out with 4 salvars and 16 mosquito bites. That evening, as we watched the IPL, big cricket tournament, my jaw dropped when I saw an ad for Unprotected-72, the Indian version of Plan B for only Rs 60! Unbelievable. Like it or not, Bangalore, along with every other big city, is truly becoming westernized.

Nannu bengalaru nali eede

Yes, I am in Bangalore! I arrived on Tuesday, 2 days after leaving LAX. I walked outside and was greeted by drivers holding signs with the names of their guests lining the gate. I never thought I ption "could be that happy to see my name in hot pink being held by, true to the description Mama gave, "dark, husky, with moustache" in his email. Sounds scary but the guy is truly harmless. He gave me a cell phone that Mama had gotten for me and took me to the van. I had my first trial with my limited Hindi talking to him in the car. As my third language, and his 2nd or 3rd as well, it was quite interesting to hear us try to communicate. Living in Karnataka for the next few months however, I can't expect much more. I should have picked up "Learn Kannada in 30 Days." In dire need of a shower, I arrived to Mama and Mamis house to eat my first meal, Pani puri!!! I had told Mama that I wanted pani puri at SOME point, just didn't expect it to come so quickly! Savita, the maid had recently learned how to cook. Unlike Chandrappa, Savita only knows Kannada so communication is quite interesting between us - It consists of series of smiles, nods, and hand gestures. Despite mami claiming I don't eat, I just taste, I feel like her good cooking and my lack of housework is going to make me gain weight instead of lose as planned! Mama ordered a scale he teases was just for me and asks me every day if I've weighed myself. I think I should soon. I run up and down the stairs a few times a day but after weighing myself, I may need to intensify the exercise regime. I went up to my room, fully equipped with a Western style bathroom and shower, as well as a powerful ceiling fan and double bed. The rest of the day consisted of sleeping and eating and fighting jet lag, only to be woken up at 3 am by intense thunder and vivid dreams of Kermeka sleeping in a bed next to me...? I could have sworn I heard her rustling and was utterly confused as to what was happening...I blame it on my anti-malarial, Larium, and the hallucinogenic precaution.

Just say YES!

I was fortunate enough to fly Singapore Airlines, with delightful staff, personalized tv screens, and amenities galore. The meals were decent and the water was free! (I was appalled at United when they only offered water for sale). International flights are held at a different standard but Singapore Airlines and Singapore airport do impress. I was also very fortunate to swiftly clear multiple swine flu screenings, immigration, and received all my luggage in one piece with less than 10 minutes of waiting at the baggage claim belt! I also had an empty seat next to me for 11 hours of the journey and then the entire row free from Tokyo - Singapore - Bangalore! My lesson in gratefulness begins now! During the flight, I watched numerous movies among which was Yes Man. Assuming it was a comedy as it stars Jim Carrey, I was surprised to find an important message that hit home for me: Say yes! Jim Carrey's character starts off as a man who declines many opportunities and prefers to stay at home. Although recently, I have been becoming more of a 'Yes,' the movie shows how many opportunities one can miss out on by declining on activities deemed a waste of time or unworthy. Of course, in the movie, Carrey's character exaggerates, saying yes to everything and putting himself in unfortunate situations, but the lesson of the movie is clear and speaks to many: Just Say YES, you never know what you'll be missing out on otherwise. With one of the goals of this trip being a growing experience, I am truly taking this to heart and seeing where it will take me!

Global Impact meets Deshpande

My team and I will be in Hubli, Karnataka installing an SMS network between hospitals and rural clinics to facilitate communication and increase efficiency of health care workers. I was fortunate enough to be part of a group of innovative minds across all curricula at USC to join in the common purpose of social entrepreneurship called Global Impact and funded by the Deshpande Foundation Grant. We will be dorming in the BVB Engineering College for 2 months during which we will initiate and implement our sustainable project, hopefully being able to see it grow and thrive before we bade it farewell. (see SMS journal for more info on project, Lena has written an excellent description!)

80 Days??

Yes, that's right. I am going to India, clear across the world, 12 time zones away, for 80 days. Most of the auntis upon hearing this from a 25 year old desi girl, of course, decided it meant I was going to go find a man and come back married. Others may think I am going on an extended vacation before grueling rotations start. Perhaps I just need a change of pace from the city I have lived in all my life...
In fact, I am going to India to pursue a dream I have had for over 6 years: to go volunteer in the country that has given me so much culture and heritage. A country that despite all its wonders and history, is more known for and associated with poverty, corruption, and filth. A 3rd world country that many are starting to realize is going to be holding the wealth of the future.
My intentions aren't entirely selfless however. I want to learn from this country that has taught so many before me. I want to expand my mind, my ideas, and my appreciation for life and what you can make of it. Too often living in the United States, we take things for granted and forget how hard life can really be. This summer is my reality check. In the thick of it, living and working in the small town of Hubli, Karnataka, with people whom I share blood with yet are so very different than everything I have ever known. (please see the SMS link for more info on my project). Thus, my adventure begins! Follow me this summer as I give and get in return, knowledge that reaches far beyond what books can offer. I'll make an honest effort to post regularly, or as regularly as the internet and my schedule allow me to. I look forward to your feedback!